Outboarding the Shocks

After installing the overhaul lift a couple months ago by myself I pretty much let a couple outstanding issues float around. Today I decided to do something about one of those issues, my shocks. When I ordered my lift through the late Creative Style and Performance I mentioned that I'd also need a set of really fancy pants shocks, and to make sure they were the correct size. Had I done the ordering myself I would have paid more and went with shorter, easier to install shocks. Creative knew that this lift deserved more though, which is why they got me shocks much longer than required for a ~5” lift. Wanting to get back into my routine I cut up some old poly spacers and left the shocks as they were. For the past couple months I have been running around with bumpstops that touch in the slightest hint of articulation.

So I read Stu’s writup, and a couple others and thought it looked simple enough. Honestly, this has probably been one the most fun projects I've done in a while. It really was pretty easy. Take it seriously, but not as serious as one of the links I provided. You can keep your coils on the whole time if you know how to do simple math. You also need to invest in a fiberglass flameproof blanket, do not catch your rig on fire when you are grinding and welding near a plastic gas tank. After removing the added bumpstops, I got to measuring. The 2.0 Smooth Bodied Fox Shocks on my current setup require 4.5" of up travel, plus the added rubber bumpstop I decided I'd make it an even 5". Looking at the picture below it is obvious they aren't getting anywhere near the travel they require.  I have since this picture adjusted my squat to align the bumpstops better. Really I should do a spring perch relocation, but that'll happen when I stretch it. Also, my tire did in fact used to rub the first couple miles of installing the lift and 8.8, but I centered the axle pretty quick after figuring out what I did wrong (see rub marks on the spring perch).



Here is another shot of what I was dealing with. 

So I pulled out my square and got to marking off the frame where I was going to cut. I did not want to mess with my lower mounts, so I made it work for what I had. The key from what I understand is to get your shocks relatively centered so they do not move (roll) forward or backwards over the cycle of the suspension. You have to take in account not only your frame, but your squat. You do not want your shocks banging or rubbing on anything! I get a bit of a rear squat with my LA, so I decided that it would be best to position a bit back from center. From what I've seen online, most people outboard with towers that go so high up into the tub they have to bang out some room in the inner fender. I did not see my system requiring this setup, but maybe they are running extremely larger shocks? Below you can see my frame cutout and the tower wedged in. Lots of hammering was involved in the project, I did not want to mess with clamps so I made sure my cuts were good and snug.







Onto the front! I had the same issue, needed more upward travel -this time only ~1.5". So I cut off the tops of my spring perches and bent and welded on 1.5" of flat bar steel and put it back together. Pretty easy, I know the next time I visit these coil perches in many years it'll be to saw them off for coilovers.







Also, I'd like to add my ride quality has improved greatly (duh). These shocks hit hard though, if you are considering new shocks for your rig and want close to stock ride quality get Ranchos or Bilsteins valved for a Jeep. These racing shocks are for beating on -not for letting your wife apply lipstick while riding along. They run very well under heavy cycling.